Essential Personal Climbing Gear:
- Alpine Climbing Harness: Alpine Climbing Harness should be
light and simple in design, easy to put on and take off with gloves on,
with positively foolproof locking features.
- Crampons: Crampons must fit boots
perfectly; steel crampons with anti-balling and ability to toe point
positively and safely into ice.
- Ice axe: Ice axe should be versatile light
general purpose ice climbing axe not too aggressive.
- Ascender: Ascender or Jamar, a mechanical
device used for ascending on a rope; must be suitable to be used with
gloves or mittens.
- Multi-LED Head Lamp: Multi-LED Head Lamp and spare
batteries are essential items, we do not recommend single bulb lights due
to its low reliability and a single point of failure.
- Karabiners: Minimum 2 locking carabineers, 1
large and 1 small and 4 regular.
- Rappel device: Figure 8, ACT or similar; be
familiar with Munter Hitch as it may safe your life if you loose your
Rappel device and you will at some stage
- Ski poles: Very handy for the approach;
adjustable types are the best and are recommended type
- Slings: One 3m (10ft) and three 2m (6ft).
- Masks, hoses, and regulators: Good quality for your safety.
- Altimeter :
- Climbing helmet: Climbing helmet is essential
safety gear for crossing areas under rocks and ice cliffs; light weight is
an essential feature
Clothing
For under garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the
company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best
quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match
Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your
comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with
softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes
moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural
nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for
much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing
and trekking.
Upper Body:
- One
T-shirt Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200.
- Two long
Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 shirts.
- One polar
fleece pullovers, medium weight.
- One polar
fleece jacket.
- One Gore-Tex
waterproof and breathable jacket with large hood to accommodate climbing
helmet.
- Lightweight
down jacket for chilly days in base camp or warm layer when stopping for
short breaks.
- One very
warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood or a down/duvet suit if you
prefer, for high altitude use.
- Note: Your clothing should be kept dry using
waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.
Hands:
- One pair
lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but
not inside your mitts
- One pair
mittens, consists of 1 Goretex over mitt matched with the very warm polar
fleece mitt liner
Heads:
- Warm hat
wool or synthetic that covers your ears
- Balaclava
- Scarf or
neck sleeve
- Face mask
- Ball cap
or brimmed sun cap
- Glacier
Sunglass with side shields
- One pair
ski goggles (optional with light and dark lens)
- Bandana or
head scarf, useful for dusty conditions
Lower Body:
- Icebreaker
Merino 150 underwear briefs
- One pair
walking shorts
- One pair
walking trousers for trekking and around camp
- Two pair
Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 thermal bottoms
- One pair
Icebreaker Merino 200 weight thermal bottoms
- One pair
polar fleece trousers
- One pair
Gore-Tex trousers or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips
- One pair
of Goose-down (duvet) trousers or bibs. You may prefer a down (duvet)
- Note: Your clothing should be kept dry using
waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.
Feet:
- One pair
One-Sport Millet Everest Overboots or equivalent (with Aveolite liners;
good quality plastic shells with inner boots; avoid tight fit with heavy
socks.)
- One pair
sturdy leather or synthetic (Gortex) hiking boots with good ankle support
for the walk to advanced base camp
- One pair
cross-trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp
- One pair
down booties (optional)
- Two pair
med-heavy poly or wool socks
- Two Pair
of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool
- Vapour
barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags
- Two pair
lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool
- Light
Icebreaker Merino wool or cotton socks for in town.
Travel and Sleeping Gear
Rucksacks and Travel Bags:
-
One medium rucksack (50-70 litters / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used
for airplane carry).
- Two large
(120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must
be durable for use on pack animals.
- Small
padlocks for duffel kit bags.
Sleeping Gear:
-
For high altitude, one down (duvet) sleeping bag (rated to –35 C (-30 F).
In the high camp, you can sleep in your down (duvet) clothing inside your
sleeping bag;.
- For base
camp, one additional sleeping bag (good to -20 C (-5 F).
- At least 3
closed cell foam mats for use in base camp and high altitude, which can be
purchased in Kathmandu inexpensively; we do not recommend inflatable mats
due to high probability of accidental puncture.
- Note: Your sleeping bags should be kept dry
using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags
Medical
Personal Hygiene:
-
Personal hygiene supplies;
- Two tubes
lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min. factor 30);
- Anti-mosquito
cream;
- One
toothpaste/brush set;
- One bar
soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small synthetic towel;
- Hand
wipes.
Medical Supplies:
-
Note: Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid
tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will
have extensive first-aid kits,
- Personal
prescription medications. Please let your leader know about any medical
issues before the climb.
- One skin
blister repair kit.
- medications
are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no doctor's
prescription;.
- One small
bottle of anti-diarrhea pills (Imodium).
- One small
bottle of anti-headache pills.
- One small
bottle cough and/or cold medicine.
- One course
antibiotics for stomach infection, available locally at chemist shop or
pharmacy with no doctor's prescription.
- One course
antibiotics for chest infection, available locally at chemist shop or
pharmacy with no doctor's prescription.
- One small
bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide. For more
about this medication, please contact us.
- Do not
bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant non compatible
with high altitude physiology.
- One small
bottle of water purification tablets or water filter.
- Earplugs.
- Extra
prescription glasses/contact lens. Contact lens wearers, please bring
glasses in case of emergency.
Personal Food
Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks
each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will
consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes,
rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish,
tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our
Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for
their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will
be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for period so it is
important to have flavours you most likely will consume.
We cannot cater for specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you
have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious
dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask
you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.
We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars".
We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy
food in Kathmandu or in home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds
is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European
and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made
power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However,
imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food,
"freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage may not be
available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country.
Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny
baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule
in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.
Miscellaneous Practical Items
Miscellaneous Practical Items:
- 1 small
roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
- 1
cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
- 1 compass
or GPS;
- 1 battery
powered alarm clock/watch;
- 1 digital
camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
- Nylon
stuff sacks for food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are also useful;
- 3 Water
bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle)
- 1 plastic
cup and spoon;
- 1 small
folding knife;
- Binoculars
(optional);
- 4 large,
waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
- Passport,
2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
- Separate
photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
- dollars,
pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport,
Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks,
and to purchase your own drinks and gifts;
- Credit
cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash
machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.
- 1 bathing
suit/swimming costume (you never know);
- Base camp
entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found
to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books,
playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical
instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
- travel
clothes for base camp and in town;
- Please be
sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive
and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very
different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into
place at the last moment.
- Note: This is not an exhaustive list. Please
submit other equipment concerns and suggestions.
Oxygen
On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without
supplemental oxygen, most of members would prefer to have oxygen available. We
only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How
much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle,
others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must
have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will
constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at
least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually a
sufficient for average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well
together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings
which require no tools. We have a 40% buy back policy on unused oxygen bottles,
and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on
summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups
sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra
bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to
carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.
Fitness requirements
Fitness requirements
If you want to climb Everest, you're going to have to be in extremely good
physical shape. Basic fitness training should start well in advance, at the
minimum of 12 month with main emphasis on cardiovascular training, assuming you
are an amateur athlete and you are fit for strenuous athletic exercises. The main
reason for your cardiovascular training is to increase your heart-lung oxygen
capacity, so you can deliver sufficient amount of oxygen to your muscular and
brain tissue in extremely low partial oxygen pressure. Acclimatization to high
altitude is both a function of cardiovascular capacity as well as your personal
physiology adaptation capacity, which you will only find out, when you above
8000m. Small percentage of people no matter how fit they are at sea level will
not be able to adapt to high altitude, generally however the fitter you are the
better your body will be able to cope with the altitude.
Altitude Hazards and Complications
The primary concern of mountaineers as altitude increases is the partial
oxygen pressure decrease. There is a fine balance of pressure between your
internal oxygen pressure in your lungs and the outside world, which allows your
lungs to absorb the oxygen and deliver it to your blood stream, it is called
partial oxygen pressure. With the altitude the outside pressure drops, while
the internal pressure remains constant and at about 9000m you will not be able
to absorb any oxygen at all with predictable outcome despite the amount of
oxygen in the air is the same. Our system has evolved at the sea level, where
it functions perfectly and it doesn’t at high elevation. The human body has
however phenomenal ability to adapt given appropriate conditioning and time, it
is called acclimatization.
Low levels of oxygen in the blood can cause number of conditions such as Acute
Mountain Sickness (AMS), which is easily treatable and reversible condition but
it can lead to more serious conditions such as High Altitude Celebral Edeme
(HACE) and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Low level of blood oxygen can
lead to the body thermal inefficiencies causing frostbites and hypothermia.
Other condition caused by the effects of high altitude is thrombosis or
embolism.
At high elevation due to lower UV absorption by the atmosphere and reflections
from the snow there is high risk of sunburn.
The other hazards include broken bones due to falls, avalanche, ice fall or
rock fall.