Shishapangma Expedition

Tibet prior to 1950 was accessible to British explorers. It has been claimed that Mt. Shishapangma was first sited by Major H.T. Moorshead along with A.F.R. Wollaston from Survey of India team during the 1921 British Everest Reconnaissance expedition. Later in 1945, Peter Aufschnaiter and Heinrich Harrer, sketched a magnificent panorama of the mountain range including Mount Shishapangma (Gosainathan) and other peaks during their classic journey (escape) from India to Lhasa.

In 1952 Toni Hagen, Swiss Geologist and explorer  who introduced cheese in Langtang area, crossed a col, later known as ‘Hagen’s Col’, from the upper Langtang glacier and viewed the valley into Tibet with along with great southwest face of Mt. Shishapangma. This col is now known as the ‘Hagen’s Col.’

Chinese carried out detailed reconnaissance of the mountain in March and September 1961, and as the third reconnaissance in 1963 the Chinese expedition reached 7,160 m /23,490 ft of the Mt. Shishapangma.

Finally in 1964, large team of about 200 Chinese arrived at the Base of mountain with intention of climbing Shishapangma peak led by Hsu Ching comprises of nine members including four Tibetans. This Shishapangma expedition established six camps and on 02nd of May at 10:20 Peking time reached the summit. The second ascent was made after 16 years of first climb by a German expedition (Dr Menfred- Strum) in 1980 once the peak was opened for foreigners. Japanese lady Junko Tabei climbed Shishapangma in 1980 and by Reinhold Messner in the year 1981.

The first Mt. Shishapangma climbing route was northern route, and many subsequent climbs as well making this early standard route to climb Shishapangma. In 1982 British explorers including Doug Scott, Alex Macintyre and Roger Baxter-Jones used Shishapangma climbing route from the South-West face also known as "British Route", or "Right-hand couloir". There are many different variations as many as fourteen on the mountain to climb. Our common route is via North-west face, and the North ridge which is considered the easiest route to climb.

As per the experience of majority climbers who attempt or summit Mount Shishapangma, the Shishapangma Expedition (8,013m/26,289ft) is one of the safest and easiest 8000m expeditions after the Cho-Oyu Mountain.  Satori Adventures makes it clear that how easy to climb Mt. Shishapangma or how difficult to climb Mount Shishapangma or any other 8000m peaks can only be said through comparisons to other peaks. It also depends on your age, physical fitness, previous climbing experiences, weather, and climbing season.

Especially mount. Shishapgnamga is normally climbed from North-west Ridge, North-east Ridge, and South-Southwest route. There are two summits of Mt. Shishapgnama. The main summit is climbed via south, southwest ridge, and northeast climbing route which is the height of 8,027 m (26,335 ft). The summit can also be climbed from the north-west through false summit (8,013m/26,289ft.) but you are to ascend almost 250m in the knife-edged ridge – really technical and carries high risks. That is why north-west ridge is commercial route and (8,013m/26,289ft.) is taken as the standard summit.

Shishapangma Advance Base Camp is located at a height of 5,600 m/18,372ft. After a couple of days rest and preparation at the Advance base camp, you set out for the first and second base camp acclimatization.

Shishapangma Camp 1 at 6400m/20,997ft is located on a flat snowfield with plenty of space for several tents and free from risks of avalanches and rock-fallings.  It takes around four and a half hours for the climbing Sherpa guide and five and half hours for you (generally) to reach Camp 1 of Mount Shishapangma from the advance base camp. It takes about one and a half an hour to cross the glacier of Shishapangma from Advanced base camp to reach the crampons point. The climbing route at the glacier is rough with many ups and downs. From the crampons point in two and a half hour ascending steep 25-30 degrees slope you come to the comparatively flat part where you walk about one hour and arrive Camp 1. Satori Adventures’ climbing Sherpa guide fixes about 200m rope in the difficult part of the glacier and 150m rope at the end of snow part before reaching the flat area. 

From Camp 1, it takes about four hours to reach camp 2, if you are a climber with average stamina. The camp2 is located at an altitude of 7,100m/23,300ft in the Col of Small Mountain. It all depends on your acclimatization, weather condition, physical fitness, and walking pace how long you take to climb. After 30-40 minutes to flat ascent on the ice you will reach to the slope of 40-45 degrees ice wall to climb. This section is fully fixed with the main rope. Satori Adventures expert climbing Sherpa Guides fix static rope of about 400-500m of high quality on this section and you climb using both ice screws and snow bar for safety. After crossing the ice wall, you will reach the yellow ridge from where 30 minutes of flat ascent to reach the Second Camp on the Col of a small hill.

The Mount Shishapangma climbing from Camp 2 (C2) to Camp 3 (C3) takes about four hours for average stamina climbers. Camp 3 is located at the height of 7,100m/23,300ft – 7,200M/23,622ft. The climbing route from Camp2 to Camp3 has about 10-15 degrees slope vertical ice for about three and half an hours. Almost half of the expedition teams pitch Camp3 at the ridge here and rest half of the teams ascend another 120m with the help of fixed-lines 40-45 degrees slope above. It crosses a ravine between two small mountains and lands on the back lawn – and takes some 30 minutes to reach upper part of Camp three from this bottom camp. If you think your climbing pace is comparatively slow in this height, you can push to this upper part to camp that eases you the next day for summit push.

Getting to the top of the mount Shishapangma from Camp3 and return back to the same camp or even climb down to Camp 2 (some strong climbers can do it) is without doubt the most difficult and longest journey in this climbing expedition (you will end to camp 2 only if you are of the strong stamina other while you return back to Camp 3). Almost 90% climbers target and end the summit at false central summit 8,013m/26,289ft. There is another two hours ascent at the snowy knife-edge ridge to the real summit which is the height of 8,027m/26,335ft.

You may leave for the summit push at about 11:00 pm-00:00 am and reach the summit between 06:00-09:00 am (based on your stamina). Almost 100% of the climbing route from Camp 3 to the summit requires climbing on fixed rope. It requires about 700m Korean rope if there are less number of climbers – less than 60 climbers – and dynamic rope for larger than this.  . The climbing is roughly about 40-45 degrees slope from camp three to reaches the false central summit.  

After the summit of Mt Shishapangma, 98% of climbers descend down to Camp three from the central summit. However, if you choose to summit the real summit the greatest challenge for you is traversing the knife-edge ridge between the two summits. If that is to be considered then the weather forecast must the perfect – 0% chance of wind, snow, or low visibility – in which the ridge would be very risky in bad weather conditions.

Satori Adventures with excellent expedition track record in the Himalayas operates Mount Shishapangma expedition and the Shishapangma Climbing Season is spring and autumn.  

Satori Adventures is alternative name of seasoned expedition operators in the Himalayas with safe climbing environment equipped with highly experienced Shishapangma Climbing Sherpa Guides, sophisticated equipment’s, and unparalleled management abilities. Our nutritious menu customized to our clients preferences; as much fresh veggies as possible; freshly cooked meals available 24 hours a day comfort your expedition effort. Moreover, we provide high quality North face personal tents, a spacious and comfortable dining tent with functional and comfortable furniture and an efficient heater and pump assisted showers. We use latest model of Poisk brand oxygen and Top out/summit systems of masks and regulators. All these arrangements definitely prove to be excellent supplement to your successful expedition effort.

Our Shishapangma peak climbing program begins from arriving in Kathmandu, and then driving to Kodari, Nepal- China border. It is a five days overland trip from Kathmandu to the village of Nyalam. From this town we reach to the Base Camp popularly known as Chinese Base Camp and then to the Shishapangma summit. We pitch our Advanced Base Camp at 5,500-5,600 m/ 18,044-18,375ft where you will spend around 3 weeks, as a home in the mountain. Other camps are: Camp I at 6,400m/ 21,000ft; Camp II at 7,100m/23,300ft, Camp III at 7,500m/24,600 ft.; and then summit of Shishapangma push to 8,013m/ 26,289ft.

The cost of Shishapangma climb with us is affordable and you are guaranteed to receive luxury Shishapangma expedition services in return.

Here below you get information on Shishapangma climbing route, camp information during the Shishapangma Expedition, and detailed information on duration of Shishapangma climbing.

Advanced Base Camp - 5,600m/ 18,375ft
The Base camp and Advanced Base camp is located in wide Tibetan plateau from where view of Himalayan peaks is amazing. Advanced Base Camp is where expedition members spend more than three weeks period of their climbing trip. We have personal tent to each member of the expedition that quickly becomes private retreat station. There will be common dining tent to provide public atmosphere, and shower and toilet tent at your convenience. This is the place where Pooja is performed by expedition members for the success of the climb.

Camp I – 6,400m/21,000ft (Time from ABC 4-5hrs)
We have flat snowfield with plenty of space for tents to pitch our Camp I at an altitude 6,400m/ 21,000 ft. This is our deposit/store camp which allows supplies to be ferried up to the higher camps. From ABC it takes almost 3 hours to reach the crampons point, and another 2-3 hours to reach Camp I. Camp I offers great view of sunrise and sunset.

Camp II – 7,100m/23,300ft (Time to climb from Camp I 3-4hrs)
Our Camp II is at 7,100-7,150 m / 23,300-23,458 ft. Once you leave Camp I, there is almost flat part to walk for about 30 minutes, and after that you encounter fixed lines at 45-50º. Generally the climbing from Camp I to Camp II is safe but there can be some threat of invisible big crevasses due to covered snow. So, we advise to climb and use 100% fixed ropes. From Camp II you will be able to view magnificent Langtang-ri (7,205 m/ 23,638 ft.) if the weather permits.

Camp III – 7,500m/24,600ft (Climbing time from Camp II 4-4.5 hrs.)
The section from Camp II to Camp III is strenuous. For initial one and a half hour approximately, you will ascend 150m of fixed line on a 25º snow slope. Then you continue up for another two and half hours to stair ridge, just below the central summit ridge. From this point continue for a half hour to a Col, which is the Camp III. This space can accommodate 10-12 two man tents. Here you will rest from 16:00-23:00 before starting your summit push.

Shishapangma Summit 8,013m/26,289ft14 hrs:
The most awaited day of your adventure dream, summit day is a steep ascent on a snow and rock ridge to a snow pinnacle to the central summit (often called it false summit). Majority of climbers have finished their summit push here and left the further 14 m knife-edge ridge ascent to the real summit. We leave the camp for summit push around 00:00 and expect to reach the Central summit at around 0700-0900am and descend to Camp III. If real summit is chosen to be attempted, then the knife-ridge traverse will pose the threat, and only can be done on the perfect no wind, and snow.

We operate our Mount Shishapangma expedition in the Himalayas with well-trained Sherpa’s of western standard born and raised in the foothills of the Himalayas. Their excellence and glorious climbing history need no more explanation. Our Shishapangma climbing Sherpa Guides have climbed Mt. Everest and other peaks in the Himalayas of all height multiple times, and prove themselves to be few of the best climbers and Leader/guide.

Our Sherpas will make sure that cooperation with other Sherpa’s from different companies and Base Camp organizations is intact. It is essential that all climbing teams work together in the Himalayas with proper contribution from all operators on the tasks such as route fixing and ensuring safety of climbers from Base to the summit. Our Sherpas lead in these efforts.

How to Choosing an experience Provider
It is important for each climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suites their needs, but provides the best safely and secure mountaineering experience possible. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies in Nepal who offer 8,000 meter expeditions including Everest, but only about 30 companies who operate 8,000 meter peaks on a regular basis. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently offer, run and succeed at these types of expeditions year after year.

It is very important that the climbers who choose Satori Adventures for this trip of a lifetime experience have expectations that are compatible with the program we offer and the style of expedition Satori Adventures runs. We do not want to simply “fill our expedition”, but instead we want to comprise a team of companionable people who are focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Mt Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to further assist each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer the best environment and opportunity for you to be successful on the world’s highest mountain.

Diminutive climbing Team members
We are always developing and growing our operational systems to ensure you participate will provide as much as facilities provided. We figure our expedition members do not deserve anything less during the trekking and climbing! In the interests of giving you the most optimal chance to summit, we limit our team size to ensure the group summits on the best weather day; sometimes there are less window days for summit in Everest. In big size of group offering cheap climbs often miss out as they split their groups over several potential summit days. We feel like our climbing members are feeling that they are climbing as a family and friends team even on international people. We accept maximum 08 people in a group and if we have more than that we always split in two groups. So that our base camp staff cooks, climbing Sherpa guide will fully taking care about you and provide service as per your desire.

Maximum summit Success;
The Satori Adventures methodology and tactical approach to climbing Mt Everest has seen us achieve the highest success rates and our extensive experience gives us the edge when it comes to making the right decisions. We provide a consistently higher Sherpa and Guide ratio than any other operator, resulting in more support and backup for your summit attempt and therefore a greater safety margin and chance of success. There is always a 1:1 ratio of the climbing Sherpa/guide and client. We always use professional and experienced climbing Sherpa or guides who have all reached the summit of Everest.

Highly Qualified Sirdar/Team leader
Our guides are professionals who are trained and assessed either via the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) resulting in a greater repertoire of skills that enables them to provide a dedicated level of security to you during the expedition, or many years of mountaineering experience on the world’s biggest peaks. Our guides are experience in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have a minimum of 3 years guiding on Everest.

Advanced Communication method
Satori Adventures Everest expeditions have been at the forefront of providing top communications for our Everest expeditions. This allows us to obtain and deliver comprehensive weather forecasts via U.S., European and Kathmandu weather forecasting. Our lead guide is always equipped with a satellite phone during the climbing and at base camp. Two way radio communications between climbing members, guides, Sherpa and base camp staff is also provided. There is also local mobile network available at base camp that provides easy connection with your family during your stay at base camp.