Climbing Rules of Mountaineering

In exercise of the powers conferred by Government of Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya listed in Appendix '1'. These rules will come into force at once.

Definition:

- Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for Government of Nepal Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.

Permission:

- Any person or mountaineering team desirous of climbing the peak listed in Appendix '1' must receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix '2'. Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only. Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks. The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included. Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis. The right to give permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association. Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of Government of Nepal for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team members.

Payment of fee:

- The climbing fee structure of NMA 18 Trekking Peaks listed in Appendix "1" is as follows:

SN. Name of the Peaks Altitude in Meter Himalayan Range District Caravan Rute
1. Shigu Chuli(fluted peak) 6501 M Annapurna Himal Gandak ktm-Pkr-Ghorepani-Tadhaani
2. Mera Peak 6654 M Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-jiri-shivalaya- junbasi-nunthala-Kharikhola-poyanbung-chadrabu- kothe-thangna-khar
3. Kusum Kangru 6367 M Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha ktm-lukla-namcheThame-Khumjung-B.C.
4. Kwandge 6011 M Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Merala-Randimng-Hunde-B.C.
5. Chulu West 6419 M Manang Gandaki Ktm-Besisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani
6. Imja-tse(Island Peak) 6160 M Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha ktm-Lukla-Namche-Tyangboche-Pangpoche-Dingboche-chhukang-B.C.
7. Pharchamo 6187 M Rolwaling Himal Janakpur Ktm-Dolkha-siguti-jagat-simigaon-Chagebukharka-Beding-Na-B.C.
8. Lobuje 6119 M Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Thame-RermoPokhari-Gokya-dzonghla-B.C.
9. Ramdung 5925 M Rolwaling Himal Janakpur Ktm-dolkha-Siguti-GongerDoranangbu-Beding-Na-Kabung-Kydug-Kongma-Drolmaban- Tashi Lapcha-B.C.
10. Pisang 6091 M Manang Gandaki Ktm-Beshisahar-Bahundanda-Chamja-Bagarchhap-Chame- Pisang B.C.
11. Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) 5663 M Annapurna Himal
Gandaki
ktm-Pokhara-Dhampus-Langdrung- Ghandrung-Chomoro-Kuldi-B.C.
12. Khongma-tse(Mehara Peak) 5849 M Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Mechermo-gokyo-Dughala-B.C.
13. Ganja-la Chuli(Naya Kanga) 5844 M Langtang Himal Bagmati Ktm-Dhunche-Sysbru Goan- Lama hotel-Kyanjin Gomba-Ganjala B.C.
14. Pokhalde 5806 M Khumbu Himal Sagarmatha Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Gokya-Na-Thagna Cholapass B.C.
15. Mardi Himal 5587 M Annapurna Himal Gandaki Ktm-Pokhara-Hyangia-Dhiprang- Kharka-Mardi Basi Camp
16. Paldor 5896 M Langtang Himal Bagmati Ktm-Dhading-Ankhu khola-Rigaon-JAralang-Sertung-Krarka-somdang
17. Hiunchuli 6441 M Annapurna Gandaki Ktm-Pokhara-Chomrong-Bamboo-BC
18. Chulu East 6584 Damodar Gandaki Ktm-Beisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani-BC


For extending permission, an additional 25% charge of the total amount of the initial fee will be made for each extra week. The leader or climbing member of the team must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering Association. The maximum number of person in a group is 12 pax.

Refund:

- In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reasons, the feels already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a climbing permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar/Guide, who must be registered with NMA.

Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide:

  • To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. And to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
  • To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in the mountain.
  • To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit.
  • To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the specified route.
  • To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
  • To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules
  • To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post.

Employment Conditions of the Sirdar/Guide:

  • The Sirder Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities
  • Minimum daily allowance to be paid as per the rules of Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism, and Civil Aviation.
  • Food and tent accommodation.
  • Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp.

Insurance of the Sirdar/Guide:

  • All employees going above the base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Rs. 200,000.00.

Nomination of representative in Kathmandu:

  • Each party granted climbing permit will nominate representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative may be an individual or an organisation registered with NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.

Submission of report:

  • On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu, the party will submit a report to NMA. in the form prescribed in Appendix '4'.

Power to cancel the permit:

  • NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason.

Non-compliance of the regulation:

  • Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal, NMA may recommend to Government of Nepal to take necessary measures in accordance with the article 37 of Mountaineering Regulations 1979.

Protection of Environment:

  • Base camp and other camps will be left perfectly c lean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials, such as fix rope, pitons, etc shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.

Revision of the Regulations:

  • Any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of Government of Nepal.
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